LEGEND AND HISTORY OF UPPER MUSTANG NEPAL
The caves all over Mustang bear testimony of prehistoric settlers. However, little is known about their origin and life.Tibetan and Ladakhi chronicles have mentioned lo since the seventh century AD. Its history as an independent kingdom began after 1380, when Ame Pal, a warrior and devout Buddhist from Western Tibet, built the fortress of Ketcher Dzong. With his sons, he defeated the local warlords and constructed a walled capital Lo-Manthang. The present king Jigmi Plbar Bista is believed to be his twenty-first descendant in the direct line. Ame Pal’s son Angun Sangpo provided funding and leadership, while his minister Kalun Sangpo organized and oversaw the building of the walled city and the first monasteries. Ngorchen Kunga Sangpo a renowned teachers of the Sakya sect was invited from Tibet to bring religious life to the new kingdom. Angun, Kalten chhewang and Ngorchen Kunga are therefore known as the Three Holies.
Because the passes on its northern border are relatively easy to cross the small kingdom occupied a strategic position on the trade route between Tibet and India. The lamas of Lo went to Tibet to study, and religious teacher from all direction crossed the land. Economy and culture thrived. Off course, the kingdom’s wealth attracted frequent attacks from Tibetan bandits. The resulting custom of closing the gate of Lo-Manthang every night was observed until a few years ago. At the end of the sixteenth century, Lo-Tsho Dyun came under the power of Ladakh, and around 1760,the kingdom of Jumla in western Nepal finally succeed in making Lo its vassal, At the end of the 1700s Prithivi Narayan shaha, the Gorkha king who founded Nepal, annexed Jumla’s vassal states in the course of his conquests. Under the new powerful rulers in Kathmandu, Lo largely retained autonomy in its internal affairs, but the central government regulated the revenue of the area. The economy of Lo, Bahragaon and Panchgaon suffered since the Thakalis gained control over the salt trade along the Kali Gandaki in 1862.
Monk Dance in Upper Mustang During Tiji Festival The introduction of a constitutional monarchy in Nepal in 1951 resulted in Mustang becoming a district, and took away much of the King’s power. Following the Chinese exaction of full control over Tibet in 1959, the Khampa guerillas based their resistance movement in Lo. The Nepal government declared the Mustang District a restricted area. After the Khampa movement started its customary development activities. Lower Mustang opened for tourism, but Upper Mustang was left in economic isolation. When parliamentary democracy in Nepal after 1990 revolution, the new government decided to reopen Upper Mustangpartially for foreigners. The first trekking groups entered Upper Mustang in 1992. In the same year, the Annapurna conservation area was extended to include Upper Mustang.
Mustang Trek
Mustang: then and now
Mustang trek is an exploration of the concealed valleys of upper Mustang in Nepal, nestled between Tibet and the Himalayas – a place different from the rest of the world. The wall city of Lomanthang used to be a part of Tibetan kingdom of Gungthang until 1830s. The early history of Lomanthang is embellished in myths and legends rather then the recorded facts. Even though the upper Mustang is changing it still surprises the visitors with its stunning vista and the stubborn way it cling to its unique culture. Indeed the culture is fighting back, crumbing art works are being restored. Crumbing monasteries have been rebuilt and refilled with the sound of bald-headed children in robes studying the ancient Buddhist ways. There are around 275 houses in Lo Mangthang having four castes: the royal caste, the everyday folk, the blacksmiths and the butchers and millers. The whole Lo manthang village has solar electricity now, along with a small herb garden of various holy decorations, flapping flags and of course stacked firewood. There was a time when it was the mandatory of certain family to supply the firewood for the royal family. Sky burial and polyandry are still remain practice in this upper mustang region. Once Nepal got republic in 2005 the royal family is symbolic only. There is no any major effects or damage of April 2015 earthquake in the whole Mustang region – totally safe for trekking.
It is believed that Guru Rinpoche had fought with demon among the Mustang ‘s snow capped mountain, desert canyons, and grassland. Once Guru Rinpoche killed the demon, it is said he scattered the demon’s body parts across Mustang valley: its blood formed the towering red cliffs and its intestines tumbled near to Ghami where people have later on build the stone prayer wall, the longest in Nepal, on top of the demon’s intestines.
Upper Mustang trek
Upper Mustang trekking in Nepal was officially opened in 1992 and limited numbers of trekkers are only allowed each year in order to protect and conserve the local Tibetan tradition and the fragile environment. Mustang trek unfolds the fabled forbidden kingdom’s vast and arid valleys, eroded canyons, yak caravans, colorful – painted mud brick houses on the back dropped of majestic mountain of Nilgiri, Tukche, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.
This Upper Mustang trekking is one of the best trek to do even in the monsoon time as the entire Upper Mustang lies in the rain shadow, north of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, completely sheltered from the monsoon downfall in Nepal. We take both ways of Pokhara Jomsom Pokhara flight on this Mustang trekking that does avoid the lower rainy section of Annapurna. The best advantage of doing this cultural trek in monsoon time is that the village are full of local people busy at their every day works and the whole region are in bloom which makes really a fabulous contrast with the wind eroded hills, red cliffs and snow capped mountains on the back ground – a great vista. Thus upper Mustang trek is once in a lifetime destination to explore the fascinating medieval walled kingdom of Lo Manthang.
Outline Itinerary
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Experience the stark, barren landscapes of Lower Mustang dotted with Tibetan Buddhist cultural attractions on treks around Jomsom. Altitudes on this trek are not too high, and flying between Pokhara and Jomsom speeds up the journey. This is an ideal trip for trekkers who don’t have much time, or who would rather not do a very strenuous trek.
Highlights
- Explore the well-preserved Tibetan culture of Upper Mustang
- Visit Muktinath, one of the holiest Hindu pilgrimage sites in Nepal
- Views of the north face of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri
- Fly over the deepest gorge in the world, the Kali Gandaki
- Visit the pre-Buddhist Bon village of Lupra
Brief itinerary
Day Highlights Overnight Day 1 Welcome to Kathmandu! Kathmandu Day 2 Explore Kathmandu Kathmandu Day 3 Fly from Kathmandu to Jomsom via Pokhara (2,720 m) Jomsom Day 4 Trek to Kagbeni (2,900 m) Kagbeni Day 5 Trek to Jharkot; Visit to Red Gompa (3,519 m) Jharkot Day 6 Day trip to Muktinath (3,710 m) Jharkot Day 7 Trek to Jomsom via Lupra Valley (2,790) Jomsom Day 8 Flight from Jomsom to Kathmandu via Pokhara Kathmandu Day 9 Depart Kathmandu
Detailed Itinerary
Day 1: Welcome to Kathmandu!
- As you fly into Kathmandu, you'll have beautiful views over the valley, the Himalaya, and of the terraced fields below. After going through customs, a representative will be waiting to guide you through the initial culture shock of Kathmandu’s narrow, winding streets and get you settled into your hotel. Once you've settled in, head out and visit one of Kathmandu's cultural highlights. In the evening, the tourist hub of Thamel is a good place to grab your first meal, with a variety of restaurants to chose from offering both Western and local Nepali dishes.
Day 2: Explore Kathmandu
- Kathmandu has a special atmosphere during the early morning hours when the city is slowly coming to life yet not too chaotic. It's a great time to walk and explore the streets or have a chai overlooking one of the local courtyards or durbar squares. There are a number of ways you can spend the day given the many incredible sights around the Kathmandu Valley. Later in the evening, head out for dinner at one of the city's great eateries, or your specialist can arrange a home-cooked dinner with a local family.
Day 3: Flight from Kathmandu to Jomsom via Pokhara
- After an early breakfast in Pokhara, you'll drive to the airport for a 30-minute flight to Jomsom, the headquarters of Nepal's Mustang district. The flight takes you over the Kali Gandaki, the deepest gorge in the world. From the plane, you'll have great views of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna.Jomsom is among the very few places in Nepal from where the Himalayan peaks can be admired at such a close range and yet from a safe altitude of only 8,800 feet. Giant peaks like Nilgiri, Tilicho, and Dhaulagiri seem so close you could reach out to touch them.In Jomsom, you'll feel how much cooler and drier the air is. Today is a day for taking it easy and exploring the charming town of Jomsom and beyond to get a feel for your surroundings. Depending on how you feel, there is a great two-hour walk down the Kali Gandaki Valley to Marpha, home of Thakali people and their famous Marpha apples and apple brandy. You can explore village learning about the traditional design principles, including the flat roofs to dry produce for use in the long winters and the underground drainage system. You can also visit the distillery and sample their wares before returning to Jomsom.
Day 4: Trek to Kagbeni
- This morning, you'll trek north to Kagbeni, arriving in time for lunch. The wide trail along the western side of the sandy, saligram-filled riverbed provides views of the nearby peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, and Nilgiri, and, to the south, the Annapurna Massif.Kagbeni, spectacularly situated atop a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and the Jhong Khola rivers, is the last village in Lower Mustang and guards the entrance into Upper Mustang (visible across the Kali Gandaki riverbed). It is an oasis of green fields amidst rocky, arid mountains, with Niligiri looming beyond. This ancient, partially ruined citadel town is a glimpse into a unique way of life, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of barley and its massive, 800-year-old brick-red Sayka Gompa. You can also wander past the ancient 100-room King’s Palace.At the police check post at the north end of the village, there is a sign that reads "Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point". This is the trail going up to the famous Lo Manthang, in ‘forbidden’ Upper Mustang.
Day 5: Trek to Jharkot and visit to the red Gompa
- You will want to eat a hearty breakfast this morning, as today, the climbing begins. From Kagbeni to Jharkot is approximately 3-4 hours walking, depending on how you are feeling in the dry air and the altitude.It's an uphill trek from Kagbeni to Jarkhot and you gain quite a bit of elevation, so it’s nice to stop here and take the afternoon to explore this old fortified village. The main feature of the village is the striking red Gompa (monastery) of the Sakya sect of Buddhism that sits prominently at the front of the village. This Gompa is more than 500 years old and has an active Tibetan Medicine school. There are stunning views down the valley and up towards the famous Thorong La (pass) which is the highest point of the Annapurna Circuit trek.
Day 6: Trek to Jharkot via Muktinath
- Muktinath is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus, and a great example of a sacred place shared in harmony by followers of two religions. Local Buddhist nuns (belonging to the lineage of Lama Wangyal) caretake the site. Every year, thousands of devotees from India, Tibet, and Nepal come here on pilgrimage for purification and salvation. It is said that throughout history many kings throughout Asia did the same.It's well worth spending a day here to not only visit this sacred shrine but also to relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.
Day 7: Trek to Jomsom via Lupra
- You'll descend to Jomsom via Lupra village, visiting a local Bonpo Monastery. While you have to ascend the mountain again for a short way to get back on the trail, it is a great route that trekkers on the Annapurna circuit miss out on, so you will be far away from the crowds and the jeep trail to Jharkot and Muktinath.Bonpo is an ancient pre-Buddhist religion not represented by many monasteries these days, so it is a rare and special chance to learn about this ancient animist religion while taking a stunning alternate route back to Jomsom.
Day 8: Flight from Jomsom to Kathmandu via Pokhara
- After an early breakfast in Jomsom, you'll be transferred to the local airstrip to catch your return flight to Pokhara. From here, you'll catch a connecting flight to Kathmandu.Once you arrive, you'll be transferred to your hotel in the capital city. Spend the rest of the day on your own, perhaps exploring the streets on foot, bicycle, or rickshaw, and seeing anything you may have missed at the beginning of your trip.
Day 9: Depart Kathmandu
- Time to say farewell to Nepal. Enjoy your last moments in Kathmandu with breakfast in a café, a city stroll, and/or souvenir shopping. A representative will meet you at your hotel and drive you to the airport for your return flight home. It's good to be at the airport at least two hours prior to departure.
Overview
Fast facts Min. duration 9 days Max. elevation 3,710 m (Muktinath) Start/finish Jomsom Difficulty Moderate Trek-style Teahouse Best season May-Nov Nepal’s Mustang region was a semi-autonomous kingdom until 2008, and still retains one of the best-preserved Tibetan Buddhist societies in the world. Flying to Jomsom and then trekking around Lower Mustang—through Kagbeni, Muktinath, Jharkot and Lupra—is an ideal way of getting a taste of fascinating Mustang without needing to pay for the expensive Upper Mustang permit.Mustang is in the rain shadow of the Himalaya, so the landscape here is arid. Flying from Pokhara takes you through the Kali Gandaki Gorge, the deepest in the world. On the other side, a completely different landscape opens up that is like few other places in Nepal.Treks around Jomsom reveal Tibetan Buddhist monasteries perched on ridges and cliffs, the holy Hindu pilgrimage site of Muktinath, and the old fortress town of Kagbeni, the frontier between Lower and Upper Mustang. Greenery is sparse and provided only by the irrigated fields around settlements. The unique landscape and culture combine to create a fascinating trekking experience.Getting there & away
- The preferred method of transportation to Jomsom is a half-hour flight from Pokhara.Roads built in the last few years have opened up access to Jomsom and the Mustang area. It used to be popular to trek all the way along the Kali Gandaki Gorge to Jomsom (or vice versa) as part of the Annapurna Circuit. Since the completion of the road this is no longer ideal as the road is dusty and trekkers have to share it with vehicles.As an alternative to flying, you can get a jeep from Pokhara or a bus from Beni (3 hours from Pokhara) all the way to Jomsom. This takes a full day and lowers the transport cost, but be prepared for a bumpy ride.
Permits & regulations
- An Annapurna Conservation Area permit ($20) and TIMS card ($10) are required for trekking in and around Jomsom. These can be arranged in Kathmandu or Pokhara.An extra, expensive permit is required for entry into Upper Mustang, past Kagbeni ($500 for 10 days) (see ‘Variations’ section, below). It is necessary to trek with a guide in Upper Mustang.
Best season
- As Jomsom and Mustang are in the rain shadow of the Himalaya and receive little rainfall, this is one of the few places in Nepal that is ideal for trekking in the monsoon months (June to August). However, flights from Pokhara to Jomsom are frequently delayed at this time of year due to bad weather, so best to have a buffer of a couple days on either end to avoid missing any important connections.Like elsewhere in Nepal, spring (March-May) and fall (September to November) are also good times to go to Jomsom.Visiting in winter is not advised, as temperatures here get very cold, and many resources (including running water) become scarce in Mustang. Many locals shut their businesses and leave.
What to bring
- As well as the usual provisions for a multi-day trek (good boots, a waterproof layer, and many layers of clothing), it’s especially important to carry a face mask/scarf and sunglasses on this trek. Mustang often experiences fierce winds in the late morning and afternoon, which whip up a lot of dust and grit.
Difficulty
- The treks around Jomsom are moderately difficult. The highest elevation is Muktinath at 3710 metres, but all nights are spent below 3000 metres. It is suitable for both first-time and repeat visitors to Nepal, though a reasonable level of fitness and good health is required.
Accommodation & meals
- The trekking infrastructure in this region is good compared to other parts of Nepal. There is a variety of accommodation in Jomsom and Muktinath, with higher-quality hotels in Jomsom (such as Jomsom Mountain Resort, with an indoor swimming pool) and lodges catering to pilgrims in Muktinath. Teahouses/lodges in this region are usually basic but provide blankets and running water (though not always hot).Food in teahouses/lodges is generally of a good standard, with plenty of fresh vegetables (when in season), noodles, rice and other healthy and filling dishes available. It is not advisable to travel to Jomsom in winter as many facilities close for the season, making food supplies scarce.
Variations
Continuing into Upper Mustang
Instead of heading east to Muktinath from Kagbeni, you can continue on to Lo Manthang, the capital of Upper Mustang. This adds another 8-10 days to this itinerary. Highlights include exploring the narrow streets of the old city of Lo Manthang and seeing the meditation caves cut into rock faces. Permits for trekking in Upper Mustang cost $500 for 10 days, and trekking must be done with a guide.Connecting with the Annapurna Circuit
From Muktinath, you can join the Annapurna Circuit by crossing the Thorong La (5416 m), thus joining the circuit in a clockwise direction. The Annapurna Circuit is one of Nepal’s classic treks, but fewer trekkers are making the full circuit these days due to road construction and unpleasant hiking along the dusty road between Beni and Jomsom.Crossing the Thorong La is very strenuous, and should only be attempted with proper preparation. When crossing from Muktinath (3710 m) the increase in altitude will be rapid, so it is important to make it down to Thorung Phedi (4540 m) the same day. There is often snow at the pass, and weather conditions can change rapidly. Usually, Thorung La is crossed from east to west, given a more gentler climb to the pass.Map
